ITALY AND ME...

If you want to understand a place, being there —with your eyes open —is what matters most.

Days, months and years pass... You watch patterns form... You see pieces come together and break apart.

Local realities take on a life of their own, so quietly you might not even notice.

Pompeii, Villa dei Misteri (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

That, basically, is my story in Italy—as a historian, a writer and an ordinary person doing everyday things.

Pompei Scavi (Excavations), the Villa of the Mysteries station on the Circumvesuviana line out of Naples. (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

Italy—real and imagined —has been ground zero for most of my adult life.

In my more fanciful moments, I see myself at a late-night train station waiting for the next load of experiences to rumble through.

Experiences but also facts— historical and otherwise.

In the stacks of the Florentine National Archive (Archivio di Stato di Firenze)

For decades, my chief outpost has been the Florentine National Archive (Archivio di Stato di Firenze), with forays to other documentary repositories of that sort.

There I page through heaps of ancient parchment and paper, watching events unfold— seeing them through the eyes of the people most immediately involved, hearing about them in their own words.

Bits from my own archive, including my time with the Medici Archive Project, an international foundation that I launched and directed for many years. (Photo Edward Goldberg)

Along the way, I lost patience with simple tales of cause and effect.

History—like life itself—is never about just one thing.

More archival bits. (Photo Edward Goldberg)

As “Source Material”, we can claim whatever we encounter in our journey.

Words on paper, of course, but also people, places and situations. Also, buildings, landscapes and works of art.

Anything that triggers associations and uncaps the flow of memory.

Archivio Mediceo del Principato 5150, including 220 letters from Benedetto Blanis (1615-21), a Jew in the Florentine Ghetto. Their discovery launched many years of research and writing, culminating in two books, Jews and Magic in Medici Florence and A Jew at the Medici Court, both Toronto University Press, 2011. (Photo Donato Pineider)

What is a “discovery”—in the archive or beyond?

Sometimes we happen on a seemingly magical document that sheds light on things we never expected to see.

Far more often, miscellaneous findings combine slowly, exposing truths long hidden in plain sight.

The last known letter from Benedetto Blanis Hebreo (upper left corner), smuggled out of the Bargello prison in Florence in September 1620. (Archivio di Stato di Firenze, Archivio Mediceo del Principato 5150, attached to folio 391 recto; Photo Donato Pineider)

DI COSA NASCE COSA. (One thing gives birth to another. )

That is a favorite Italian proverb, profound or damned obvious depending on your point of view.

Archivio Buonarroti 81, including Michelangelo Buonarroti the Younger's comedy, L'Ebreo (The Jew), conceived for the annual Carnival at the Medici Court in 1614. My discovery of this intriguing lost work resulted in another book, Carnival Blood (unpublished) and a dramatic adaptaion in English (available on this site). (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

In the course of my research and writing, I have always jumped into the middle of the story without knowing how things will end.

Intellectual discretion? Yes, no and maybe... For better or worse, that is how I am wired and the only way I can work.

L'Ebreo Commedia di M[ichelange]lo B[uonarrot]ti (The Jew, a Comedy by Michelangelo Buonarroti [the Younger]), the opening scene. For more about this discovery, see here.

I've written a few books and any number of articles over the years.

From bottom to top, in not quite chronological order: Personality and Politics in Medici Collecting (my 1979 doctoral dissertaiion from Oxford University), After Vasari (Princeton, 1988) and Patterns in Late Medici Art Patronage (Princeton, 1983), A Jew at the Medici Court (Toronto, 2011), and Jews and Magic in Medici Florence (Toronto , 2011)

These are now filed away on a shelf in my living room, hinting at a cosmic arrangement of some kind.

(Photo Edward Goldberg)

Other bits, meanwhile, are fixed on my bedroom wall.

Note the framed print at the upper left. (Photo Edward Goldberg)

But where do I fit into this picture —as exemplified by the device-waving reflection below, toward the bottom of the frame?

Souvenir of an exhibition that I curated while I taught Art History at Harvard. (Print by John Kristensen of the Firefly Press; Photo Edward Goldberg)

I have always been more of a searcher than an explainer, but with an engrained habit of thinking out loud.

That is what I am asking you to share— here on this website.

At the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jersualem, unveiling the bronze altar by the sculptor Giambologna (circa 1588), installed by Ferdinando de'Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, at the purported site of the Crucifixion of Christ. (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

Omniscient magus with a guidebook? Oh, please!

The Medici arms surmounted by the grand ducal crown. (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

Still, it is hard to avoid grandiloquent gestures when the most important work of Renaissance art in the Holy Land is covered by a schmatta and generally ignored.

For the record, this was the context at Golgotha the last time I was there—along with the Armenian Patriarch—coming up on Passover and Easter 2025. The Giambologna altar is off to the right. (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

In real life, most discoveries reveal themselves slowly.

Usually we begin with the context, working inward toward the center.

Carl Spitzweg, English Tourists Visit the Roman Campagna, circa 1835 (Berlin, Nationalgalerie)

In spite of what you might think, I have always been allergic to "discovery-itis" —the mania for facile revelations based on one-off details.

By Carl Spitzweg (Berlin, Nationalgalerie)

I think of Carl Spitzweg's Roman guide or top-hatted gentlemen in nineteenth century prints, pointing with their umbrellas at London's Crystal Palace or Philadelphia's Centennial Exposition.

Visiting a historic cemetery near Lake Sevan, Armenia (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

Along the way, I learn essential facts from local non-Academics who live with this stuff day-by-day.

Chapel in a historic cemetery near Lake Sevan, Armenia (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

Meanwhile, I poke around— imagining that I am also part of the story.

Accessing truth and knowledge by the Trevi Fountain in Rome (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

What do you do about "discoveries", when thousands of others are in your face, making them too?

Advanced selfie-stick technology at the Trevi Fountain (Photo Edward Goldberg)

You keep moving...

Lyle Goldberg at the Trevi Fountain (Photo Edward Goldberg)

You shoot first...

You ask questions later...

Rome, Trevi Fountain (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

And you never know what you will find.

For the images on this website, see WHERE DO THESE PICTURES COME FROM?

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